Connecting the Dots

While I was at home in Jacksonville, between Washington D.C. and Guatemala, I read the book Mountains Beyond Mountains by Tracy Kidder. I picked it up on whim at the airport before my flight exiting DC and after reading it, it almost felt as if it was meant to be. The author narrates the life of Dr. Paul Farmer, a unique individual and famous physician, and presents society and medicine in some interesting angles. The aspect of the story that drew me in mostly was the history of Haiti. As Dr. Paul explains throughout the book, Haiti is not a poor country because the people or government wanted it that way. Haiti did not become the least developed country in the Western hemisphere all on its own. It took the help of corrupt politicians, mismanaged NGOs, and foreign governments. Although I do not recall the exact details, many people have become sick and poor in Haiti because of the intrusion of foreign governments and organizations. Basically others have helped screw up an already screwed up Haiti.

The story helped to shape my previously held beliefs that we, as people and humans living on Earth, are all connected in one way or another. It is easy to ignore this fact if you wish as the Earth is quite vast holding around 6 billion. But facts are facts even if history has been shaped by the victors and the powerful. The history of the nation state has been shaped almost entirely by the interaction between these states. Simply put, states have caused dramatic changes in other states. Colonial powers divided Africa into the mess of different ethnicities and religions that it is today. The conquistadors came over from Europe to decimate indigenous populations with disease and claim the land as their own. The United States, by itself, has led or helped lead the coups of governments around the world putting into power oppressive rulers. Simply add France, Spain, UK, Portugal, and the Soviet Union to the mix, and it is overwhelming to think about how much influence these countries have had in shaping today’s world; which countries are poor and poorer, which countries have hope for the future, and how individual people are living. I am not trying to take away any responsibility held by the citizens of each individual nation to improve the quality of their own life but what I am trying to say is that history has shown, even with their best efforts, wanting to make a better life is not as simple as doing it.

Basically, what I have come to believe strongly, is that the connections between countries, societies, and people are all around us but sometimes difficult to see. It is hard to imagine that an old man living in a small village in China struggling to buy medicine is at all connected to a power broker in New York City making millions per year and living in an apartment overlooking Central Park. But as studies and history suggest, we are all much more easily connected that it seems at first glance. Our individual histories have probably collided in the past causing one individual or society to come out on the better half. And by chance that it has happened in the past, it surely will in the future. It is so freaking easy today to connect with people across continents, languages, and religions. Flights go practically everywhere, social networking sites are expanding everyday, and the internet and cell phones have flattened the world in ways like never before.

As I had been thinking more and more about these connections and what they mean in my life, I realized that in many ways this is what my life is about right now. I am trying to make sense of myself, my community, and my place in the world. In essence, I am trying to connect the dots that are all around me. And as I connect two dots together, more appear. As I begin a new friendship, it opens up the new door to many others. As I learn more, I realize the strength and closeness of the relationships between ideas, places, and people. It is fascinating to me to learn about how two seemingly unrelated things are connected. And I love learning about new cultures and meeting different types of people.

It is for these reasons that I believe “Connecting the Dots” is an appropriate name for my blog. As I learn more about Guatemala, meet new people, and discover ideas, I will try to take all of this information in, share it with you, and connect the dots.

Todo es posible en Guatemala

The Weekend at the Lake

Author’s Note: Before you start commenting on my grammar, I would like to let you know that I am exploring the UK English way of using quotation marks. In UK English, the quotations marks always fall within the sentence, meaning before all periods, question marks, and exclamation points. My roommate in DC, Andrew Resar, uses quotation marks in this format and I kinda like it. It makes a lot more sense that having a quotation mark outside of the period.

All I can say is that I am happy to be alive right now. Seriously. Lake Atitlan was absolutely stunning in its beauty and the weather was a great 10-15 degrees warmer, but getting to and from there proved to be quite a hazard. As I explained previously, the normal mode of transportation in Guatemala is bus. There are buses that pretty much go everywhere from anywhere and I have learned that it is by far the easiest and best way to travel around the country. Now, the normal type of bus is called a “camioneta”. These camionetas are basically old, torn up, dysfunctional school buses from the States and probably a few other countries. They are lovingly called by locals and tourists alike “chicken buses”. Traveling by camioneta is the cheapest and in many ways most efficient way of traveling around. The school buses come in all shapes, sizes, and colors with the inter city buses being painted with their destinations and slightly “pimped” out.

A little more background on the buses before getting to the weekend. Imagine the maximum number of people allowed on a school bus. Normally there are are 2 columns of seats with about 10-12 rows. If my mathematical mind serves me well then that means the maximum number of people to around 40-44. Now imagine that that there were also people standing in the aisles, like in the subway. Got a good mental picture? Now, add to your image the fact that there are now 3, even 4 people, in each row of seats that was meant as a tight squeeze for two. Then add in the additional people standing in the back and the front of the buses and the numerous youngsters on the laps of men and women. You are probably picturing a ridiculously full and crowded bus. Well, this situation happens in Guatemala frequently. I am not lying to you when I say I believe that in Guatemala it is entirely possible to have anywhere between 80-100 on a bus.at one time. It is truly amazing. As my housemate Fernando says, “Todo es posible en Guatemala”. Everything is possible in Guatemala.

As I walked with my housemates, Beto and Fernando, to the Minerva Bus station, I was very excited for my first true adventure on the chicken buses. We entered a strip of road in Xela where I had seen a few buses previously and then continue walking along the road to a big parking lot filled with vendors, buses, and people busily moving in every direction. THIS is the Minerva Bus Station. In reality it is not a station at all, just a gathering point for buses. Anyways, we climbed onto a bus that was leaving for Panahachel as we were finding what seats were left. Fortunately there were a few empty spots and made myself cozy next to another Gringo (white person, and this goes for any white person, Americans, Europeans, Australians, etc; we are all Gringos). As we drove, the bus picked up more and more people but my seat continued to hold only two people. Normally, about half way through the ride, a person comes to collect the money (in espanol he is called a cobador) and this ride was no different. The cobrador made his way towards the back and quoted a fare of 20 quetzales, but it looked like everyone else was paying 15 quetzales. After I paid, I ask my friend, Beto, who was a few rows up from me, how much he paid. He told me 15Qs. The 4 gringos, all of us toward the back and already suspicious, now knew we were overcharged and we were not happy. We demanded our 5Qs back and the cobrador just ignored our requests. My friend Beto then said something to the guy and still he ignored our request. Finally I laughed knowing that this was business in Guatemala yet knowing I got screwed.

In the meantime, the ride was absolutely crazy. The bus driver was certifiably insane and all of the Guatemalans even were scared as the bus driver drove down the extreme left side of the road trying to get around traffic and as he passed numerous cars on the tight mountain roads. My palms were extremely sweaty but I tried to read my book and remind myself that I had not heard of any buses falling off the cliffs recently. As we curved and sped dangerously close to other cars and the cliffs, I finally caught my first glimpse of the lake. It was absolutely gorgeous. The lake is actually a volcanic crater and is now surrounded by other volcanoes and mountains with numerous scattered villages and towns around the perimeter. It is pristine. As we approached Pana, the cobrador, unceremoniously and unexpectedly, walked toward the back of the bus and gave each of us Gringos back our 5Qs.

Panahachel was a cool little city on the lake that definitely had the feel of a touristy town. There were vendors, restaurants, and hotels everywhere. We stayed at a hotel a little off the main street and walked around the city a bit. For dinner, we ate at an extremely cheap restaurant that my friend knew about. A plate with fish, potatoes, veggies, bread, and a soda cost about $3. How incredible is that! That night we bought a bottle of whiskey, drank a bit in the hotel room while watching “Remember the Titans” and then headed out to town. What I would like to point out most about this night was that my stomach officially became Guatemalan. At around 1am as we tired from the bars, we hit the streets in search of food only to find a taco stand. Now the meat for these tacos look extremely unappetizing but, hey, it was food. I have heard many times since I arrived in Guatemala to not eat the street food, to avoid uncooked veggies, and to never drink the water. Well, on this night I ate shitty tacos from the street and did not pay for it the next morning. My stomach is now officially ready for life here!

Saturday morning, we took a speedboat across the lake to San Pedro, a town known for its gringos, great views, cheap food and lodging, and drugs. On the boat ride over, I heard a group of Americans talking and realized that there were in the Peace Corps. Now for those who do not know yet, I have been nominated to be in the Peace Corps, and am awaiting my placement. Not sure if I will do it but regardless, this gave me more than enough reason to strike up a conversation with the group. In total, there were nine Americans, all doing the Peace Corps in Guatemala, and all very cool, nice people. We ended up hanging out with them Saturday afternoon and night as we stayed in the same hotel.

Saturday was spent lounging on the rocks near the lake, drinking a few beers, and walking around the town. We all ate at a restaurant called Zoola for dinner that turned out to be run by Israelis. The food was awesome and the waiter smiled when I told him “Toda Raba” for the service. Saturday night ended up being interesting…but onto the bus ride home.

The bus ride home was definitely scarier than the bus ride there. To get home from San Pedro, we took a bus that obviously was going to have to climb the mountains to get away from the lake. As I looked at the mountains around us, I couldn’t help but wonder how the hell this old riquety school bus without any shocks was going to make it out. I still am amazed that we made it out alive. The roads to get away from San Pedro were not cut through the mountains but built up the mountains, meaning that for a good 60 minutes we curved back and forth in a “S’ shape going up an incline that was very significant. The bus stalled a few times and made the turns by inches the other times. I am actually very impressed by the bus driver as I have no idea how any sane person could drive that bus up over the mountains. We stopped in what seemed like every small town around the lake and picked up countless number of people. This time I was not so lucky to maintain my two person seat and shared the seat with an old lady who kept on coughing on me and various other people. To say I was cramped would be an understatement.

Anyways, this story is already long enough but I am happy to be alive and well in Xela and had a great adventure this weekend.

Todo es posible en Guatemala.

Ready for the Weekend!

First, I would like to apologize for not posting as promised yesterday. The last two days have been very busy for me and a lot of fun but they left me little extra time. Happy to report that my Spanish is improving along with my health. I feel pretty good now, although my stomach still has to get used to the food a bit.

This weekend I am going with two of my roomates, Fernando and Alberto, to Lake Atitlan. It is supposed to be one of the most beautiful lakes in the world and is a top destination spot in Guatemala. Conveniently it is only about an hour outside of Xela. I will be staying over both nights in one of the many villages scattered along the rim of the lake. I need to go eat lunch and then I am off…

There will be much to report after the weekend including the previously promised posts.

Adios!

Still Sick…

I have now been in Guatemala for eight full days. It honestly does not feel that long.

Pretty quickly, I am already settling to what will be my daily routine. As time goes on, I will be volunteering most afternoons, exercising, and learning how to salsa but for the first week or so- this is it.

7:30am- Wake up (It is amazing how easy it is to wake up when your bed is not so comfortable, it is pretty cold in the house, and you get eight hours of sleep)

7:45am- Quick breakfast (Usually cereal, toast, or fruit but I am holding my breathe for the beans. I am literally on edge waiting for them because I know it is coming.)

8:00am- Walk to the school for my Spanish classes that actually start at 8:00am

1:00pm- Spanish class ends; check my email quickly; walk home for lunch

1:30pm- Almuerzo (lunch); different varieties of food- rice, beans, chicken, beef, potatoes, veggies, etc

2:30pm- Read or nap; mostly read

3:30pm- Return to school to check email, write these things, do homework, study Spanish

6:30pm- Head home for dinner

8:00pm- Nighttime activity, last night I watched a Mexican film properly titled “Amores Perros” or “Love is a Bitch”

For all those worried, I am still sick. Yesterday afternoon I felt much better only to return home late to find my dinner of beans and plantains. Now, this in itself, was far from appetizing but ultimately did not lead to my demise. After I finished off my small dinner, I still was very hungry. Unable to use my brain correctly because it has been operating in Spanish for a week, I decided that I would just try this brownie that the Bianchis packed as part of my lunch when I took the bus to Xela. The brownie had been sitting in my suitcase, wrapped extremely well and tightly in aluminum foil, for five full days. I looked at the brownie. It looked good and most importantly showed no signs of going bad. Still five minutes after I ate the brownie, I regretted my decision wholeheartedly. Already suspicious that my stomach would not like the beans from 30 minutes before, I now knew I was in for it. So I stayed up to read, felt like shit again, hung out with my friend Tecun, and finally fell asleep. This morning I did not feel much better.

Currently, I feel much better again and I hope I have learned my lesson from last night. I told my senora that I only want rice and soup tonight!

So I received a request to profile each person that is living at my house. In total, there are 8 people but I have only met 7. There has also been a special guest appearance my abuelo, grandfather, and many other family members. Also I want to share with you some very interesting observations I have made about Guatemala and Xela since I have been here. I hope to write this more directed and broad entry on a weekly basis. Expect both of these by the end of Thursday.

I am also desperately trying to figure out how to get pictures embedded into the site but have failed thus far. The only thing I have accomplished was putting a link to a picture of the Biachi Family in the “Guatemala City and the Bianchis” entry so go back and check it. Any smart computer people out there, please help.

IMPORTANT NEWS: I believe I have figured out a new name for the blog. I am hating the current name. Check back soon for the revelation!

Hasta mas tarde!

Meet Tecun the Toilet

Estoy enfermo. I am sick. I knew that this day would come sooner or later but I just did not expect it to come so soon. Yesterday morning (Saturday) I woke up feeling horrible and my stomach hurt like none other. The pain was and is significant and I am wondering whether I have appendicitis. I spent a good portion of yesterday in the baño and the other part of the day lying in my bed. On the positive side- I now know the Spanish words for pain (dolor), stomach (estomago), I have a lot of pain (me duele mucho), and diarrhea (diarrea). The unfortunate part is that I am still sick; I am pretty sure it is food poisoning but really do not know. I cannot even describe to you how the toilet must feel because of me but I will try….

Inner Thoughts provided by Tecun the Toilet: A few days ago I was introduced to this white ass who called himself Avi but I will call him “el blanco”. Now I have met a lot of asses in my life but I felt really good about this one. However, I did not expect to become such good friends with him this soon. Yesterday, the morning began just as most mornings do. I was not surprised when “el blanco” delivered a storm that only an “el blanco” could produce. It is pretty normal for the non-brown ones to befriend me me rather quickly. Anyhow, after the initial meeting, we went on to develop a serious relationship all in one day. I swear he kept on coming back for more. I don’t know if I was wearing a particular aroma or cleaning product that he liked but he must have visited ten times…..okay I could continue writing this but it would SURELY gross many of you out and actually had to delete the last sentence because I grossed myself out. Tecun Toilet may return in some future entries.

The two worst parts about being sick are:

1. I missed the soccer game last night, Xela versus San Marco. I hear Guatemalan soccer is the best in the world…cough..cough. Ok Guatemalan soccer sucks, and watching soccer is not always much fun but going to a soccer game outside the US is always an event worth seeing or doing. Next time I will be able to give a report.
2. I think I became sick from the food cooked in the house. It seems that my family does not practice or understand the concept of refrigeration. They leave out food that is leftover from lunch or breakfast on the stove, cover it while it stays in pots, and then just reheat it for dinner. Now I am no expert on sanitation but I am pretty sure that if you leave food out for that long, it will cause Americans, like me, to get sick. So not sure exactly what to do about this yet, but I will talk to some other students and report back.

Anyways, today is also the PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION! Yeah huge news. There are billboards, posters, and campaigners everywhere in the country. I saw them in Guatemala City, on the road, and in Xela. So far it seems that no one is particularly thrilled with either presidential candidate. I cant blame them as the country has been wrought with lies, corruption, and civil war for quite a while now. Anyways more on the election sometime when I am feeling better. Oh, before I go my friend Tecun wants to send a shot out to all of you out there and expects you to say hello should you ever travel this way.